Party for the palate

 

By Lyn Dowling

Finally guests to the Walt Disney World Resort can expect to find temperatures falling away from the typical Florida summer conditions. Highs at the beginning of the month may seem warm to our northern neighbors, but highs in the low 80's are a great relief to residents of the Sunshine State. With evenings dipping into the upper 60's at times, we are now officially ready for fall. Towards the end of the month there have actually been times where an early cold front makes its way this far south and we have to bundle up!

If food and beverages could have a birthday party, it would be the Epcot International Food & Wine Festival.

The 15th annual version of Disney’s homage to all good things to eat and drink is underway through Nov. 14 with more selections and quality of offerings than ever before, thanks in large part to the work of Epcot Executive Chef Jens Dahlmann and his staff. Appropriate attention also is paid to fine wines, beers and other beverages from around the world, and culinary experts abound, with demonstrations, seminars and some of the best fetes a foodie could fancy: the annual Party for the Senses and the 3D Disney Dessert Discovery.

But the primary drawing point is the lineup of kiosks in which tapas-sized portions of representative food, wine and beer of 24 countries is dispensed. Visitors can feel the heat of coconut-braised beef rending with jasmine rice at Singapore’s “marketplace” or enjoy a cool, crisp waffle at Belgium. Canada offers its homey cheddar cheese soup, Spain has Serrano ham, chorizo and Manchego and South Africa serves seared beef tenderloin with sweet potato puree. What would France be without escargot, or Germany without wurst?

A kiosk entirely dedicated to desserts and champagne serves up strawberry angel verrine, pear streusel pudding cake and “Dark Chocolate Sensation,” as well as flutes of various Moet et Chandon products. Beers receive additional attention throughout the festival this year, with the “Brewers’ Collection” of fine German brauen; Samuel Adams’ “Hope and Barley,” at which lobster rolls, crab cakes and other New England specialties are served; and “15 Beers for 15 Years,” where fine, specially crafted brews are available. Specialty and international beers are available, as are wines, at various pavilions.

But food rules here and Dahlmann, formerly the executive chef at fine Disney restaurants like the Flying Fish and California Grill, has come up with another masterpiece, especially with the addition of newer international entries.

“I’m in love with Belgium and I’m in love with South Korea,” he said after paying an unscheduled visit, as Dahlmann tends to do, to the Singapore marketplace. “I love what we have been able to do with the mussels in Belgium and the short ribs in Korea.”

Indeed. The Belgian offering merely is a smaller version of what someone would expect from fine dining: a half dozen, perfectly steamed mussels nicely plated with a not-overwhelming garlic cream sauce, a slice of toasted, country-style bread and a sprinkling of parsley.

South Korea is drawing crowds with its food, including those barbecued short ribs, which really add up to more than a small plate, served with steamed rice and cucumber kimchi. Otherwise, the national booth offers a lettuce wrap filled with roast pork and kimchi slaw, also a worthy plate.

The price for each of the above is less than $5 – less than $4, actually – which is the going rate for most of the food at the festival, including some dishes which, like South Korea’s, are not really miniaturized.

It makes people like Scott Bushinger of UItica, N.Y., who is visiting the area, a happy traveler indeed.

“This is great,” he said while Dahlmann autographed a souvenir program. “I think Singapore’s food is best.”

For his part, Dahlmann was pleased to hear frequent festival visitors say the food, which was so improved last year, was better once again.

“We hope so. That’s why we’re here,” he said, grinning. “This is such a great experience.”

Superlatives: Our choices at the Epcot International Food & Wine Festival

Best Cold Plate: “Nueske’s Charcuterie Plate,” from “Charcuterie & Cheese.” Simple and outstanding, one of the best offerings at the festival, this is a good-sized pile of applewood-smoked beef, duck and ham is served with tiny pickles and a skinny slice of hearty bread. If you put this on a sandwich, it would be as huge as its flavor.

Best Hot Plate: Steamed mussels with roasted garlic cream, Belgium However do they get those mussels steamed so perfectly and that cream to be just the right consistency and temperature?

Best Dessert: Apfel strudel with Werther’s original Karamell Sauce, Germany. A good, crisp strudel with apples that retain their bite and texture, nicely presented with caramel and vanilla sauces.

Best Meal to Have on a Cool Evening: Lobster and scallop fisherman’s pie, Ireland. Dense and hearty, with a splash of sherry and a creamy potato topping.

Best Thing to Have if You Really Love Heat: Coconut-braised beef rendang, Singapore. It’s not too coconutty, but you can’t miss the ginger.

Best Thing to Have if You Really Love Cold: Bacardi Frozen Torched Cherry Colada, Puerto Rico.

Best Thing to Try That You Weren’t Sure About: Belgian waffle. This ain’t the usual Eggo with some sweet, sticky sauce, but the cake-like real deal, served with a nicely tart berry compote and a dollop of whipped cream.

 

 

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