Constant Proof

By Lyn Dowling

It is a tribute to the makers and distributors of Spanish wines that they have made such a great effort to acquaint Americans with their products. It is a tribute to John Ireland of Miami-based Ireland Wine, Spirits and Fine Fare, that when he makes the effort to acquaint Americans with Spanish wines, the latter are far above the ordinary.

Such was the case Jan. 6 and 7 at Café Margaux, where the irrepressible Ireland, who specializes in imports from family-owned producers, presented the wines of R. Lopez de Heredia, paired with the creations of Chef Erol Tugrul.

Ireland couldn’t have been happier with the results.

“He (Tugrul) did it again. He came up with (dishes) that were perfectly complementary to the wines. The wine and soup alone would have been a thing of beauty,” he said.

And it was. The opening course, a nicely chunky cream of roasted tomato and garlic soup enlivened by chorizo and fennel, was served with a white winner: a clean-tasting 2000 Viña Gravonia Rioja Blanco just spicy enough to do justice to the soup and just acid enough to get the attention of drinker-diners. No wonder Wine Spectator awarded it 91 points.

It served notice of what lay ahead: one of the more subtle rosés, a 2000 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva, served with a triumph of a salad: butter lettuce with tapenades created from three different varieties of olive, roasted red peppers and queso fresco dressed with Dijon vinaigrette. The wine was slightly smoky, with the faintest hint of coconut and citrus; truly an oenophile’s rosé.

Next came the highest-rated selection: a 93-point (Wine Spectator) 1991 Viña Tondonia Reserva Rioja, a firm, round – host Alex Litras was right to characterize it as “lean” – white that seemed made for its pairing: Marcona almond-encrusted sea bass. The almonds were sliced to transparency so that they hindered neither the flavor nor texture of the bass, which was served over an exquisite saffron-leek risotto with Manzanilla sherry beurre blanc. In Ireland’s words, “Ladies and gentlemen, they’ve nailed it.”

As if that weren’t enough, Tugrul next produced one of his most creative offerings to date in pork loin rolled around a mixture of jamón Serrano and wonderful, otherwise-underused Mahon cheese from Menorca. That went over piquillo polenta, served with olorosa (sherry) sauce. Once again, the beverage did the food huge amounts of justice and vice-versa, because the 2005 Vina Cubillo Rioja probably was the hit of the evening. This is a bright, classic European red with hints of berry, vanilla and spice that could easily pass for the product of a good French vineyard. Robert Parker awarded it a 92, and that may have been an underestimation.

Next from the wine cellar came 2000 Viña Tondonia Reserva Rioja, a dark, dry, aromatic red that was beautifully balanced and very smooth; no come-down from the previous selection. It was paired with paprika-seared beef tenderloin, a slightly spicy, just-smoky-enough meat served with whipped Mirablue potatoes and oyster-mushroom Tempranillo demi-glace. The chance to make mistakes with beef like tenderloin, spice like paprika and searing is massive. Tugrul had it spot-on.

Manchego DOP provided the cheese course, a lovely, zesty slice that seemed made for a big red: 2002 Viña Bosconia Reserva Rioja that was neatly redolent of dried cherries and spice. It had a great, lasting finish too.

Tugrul, master of the baked dessert, produced another winner to complete the meal: a moist, not-killer-sweet Largueta almond honey cake layered with Rojoles white chocolate and served with Moscatel sherry sabayon and a drink it deserved: 1985/2010 Paul-Marie Pineau des Charentes.

This is a thoroughly distinctive dessert beverage, the product of a family-owned distiller of fine cognacs that is a little like mead, in that it has hints of honey and toffee; but is not sticky or cloying, not an especially sweet drink.

It is completely unique and at the moment, like the wines presented at the dinner, is locally available only at Café Margaux. It, and they, are well worth a visit to Cocoa Village.

Café Margaux is located at 220 Brevard Ave. Cocoa. Call 321-639-8343.

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